World War One only probably has a handful of years left before its slips completely beyond the realm of living memory. Among those like me who have gleaned the story through History Channel or snippets of information that I have picked up in my travels, it might come as a surprise to know that some of the most iconic battles of the War were fought in the area immediately surrounding Kilimanjaro.

As one example, Ndarakwai Camp in Western Kilimanjaro, a popular apre climb safari destination, has a number of old trench systems that served both the British and the Germans in the campaign for control of the country during the difficult years of 1914 – 1918.

Colonial Struggle…

The nation of Tanzania began life as an outpost of the German colonial empire. It was known then as German East Africa, or Tanganyika, and was a close neighbor to Kenya, or British East Africa, which at that time also included Uganda. When war broke out between Britain and Germany in 1914, it was not long before war broke out between German and British East Africa. The railway line from Mombasa to Nairobi and beyond became the focus of German attacks, and later the railway line from Moshi to the Indian Ocean port of Tanga became the German line of retreat once the colony had been invaded.

The Kilimanjaro district, with its coffee farms, pleasant climate and clean altitude had long been the main focus of white settlement in German East Africa. Besides this the geography of flat plains interspersed with low and isolated hills was the perfect defensive landscape for both sides. A number of important battles were fought east and west of Kilimanjaro, and the towns of Moshi and Arusha the headquarters of the German High Command.

Colonial Brigades…

Another interesting aspect of the War in East Africa was that it was fought by British and Commonwealth forces. This by definition meant fighting men drawn from every colony or former colony (except America) in the Empire. Much of the heavy fighting was done in the early stages by men of Indian origin, and in later stages by local black levies and various native colonial regiments from all over the continent.

Lost History…

You would definitely draw blank looks from your climb or safari guides in Tanzania if you brought up the subject of World War One around the campfire or in the mess tent. The subject is not widely taught and the old battle sites are neither preserved nor marked in any particular way. However a little bit of background reading, and a keen sense of geography, will help you pick out some of the more notable sites on Google Maps which in turn will lead you to them. A good place to start is at Ndarakwai Camp where their chief game scout Thomas is surprisingly knowledgeable about the colonial coming and goings in the region.

In a land where the last vestiges of colonial history have been scrubbed off the landscape, it is sometimes interesting to imagine a place like Tanzania as a pawn in the global/strategic games of a by-gone era. Scratching around the battle sites of the period is definitely something worth doing if you get a chance…

If you are interested in the battlefields of East Africa, and you would like some pointers drop me a line…

For each person who signs up for a commercial climb at least three accompanying support staff are included. Once the practical business of climbing the mountain begins the down-to-earth implications of this volume of traffic with regards to where these people all ‘go’ becomes no small matter.

Standards vary from camp to camp…

Depending on the trail you choose the nature and standard of the toilets on offer vary enormously. I have noticed that the higher the altitude the less inviting are the facilities. This probably has much to do with the degree to which one’s energy diminishes at altitude, leading those unfortunate souls charged with the responsibility of maintaining these structures losing interest at altitudes above 12000ft.

The best ablution facilities can be found along the highly commercial routes such as Marangu, and to a lesser extent Machame. The standard of service available at Shira 2 Camp, for example, at the point where Lemosho Route and Machame Route merge is very high. However, far more commonly, services are offered in crudely built and shallowly dug ‘long drop’ potties that are heavily utilized and that offer a less-that-delightful aroma if your porter happens to site your tent downwind.

Facilities are circulated as much as possible…

The good news is that these amenities are regularly circulated so that the build-up of atmospheric toxins is ameliorated somewhat. There are also usually quite a few of them available at any one camp, so one can be selective about which among the many to visit.

Whatt is unavoidable, however, is that they are almost exclusively squat toilets and a degree of dexterity and accuracy are required to effectively use them. Sadly evidence abounds to suggest that these skills are surprisingly rare in the climb fraternity.

The Barafu bog consipracy…

The worst concentration of toilets I have found are at Barafu Camp, although I invite comparison from anyone who cares to disagree.

Barafu enjoys a number of signature disadvantages as a camp. It consists of a bleak and waterless ridge that was clearly chosen with more practical than aesthetic considerations in mind. It is the point at which a number of trails merge, and being as there is but one summit, and this is the last staging point for a good many climb parties, it is crowded, messy and it stinks.

It is evident that the local national parks authority is trying as best it can to keep ahead of the demand, and things could definitely be worse, but there is no pleasure in satisfying your fundamental needs here.

Bring your own if you can afford it…

Most of the higher-end outfitters nowadays offer a version of the portable sailing toilets that are carried skyward up the mountain on the heads of local porters. For women in particular these devises are a godsend and the extra few dollars they cost are definitely worthwhile.

It is easy to overlook this when considering price options for your climb, but remember when the day comes that you have to stand in the freezing wind, toilet-roll in hand, looking at a dozen possibilities, each one less inviting than the last, you will without doubt appreciate the extra expense.

Or keep it bottled up until you get to lower altitude…

The good news is that the Kilimanjaro National Park Authority (KINAPA) is gradually working towards a general improvement. There are always going to be remote camps at high altitude where the practicalities of camp maintenance are very difficult, but certain entrepots…for example Shira 2, Mweka Camp and the hutted camps along Marangu … offer a much higher standard of facility that for most punctuates and relieves the overall unpleasantness of that signature windswept hut on a cold and lonely mountainside.

Anyone who has climbed Kilimanjaro will know what a huge part the porters played in their climb. As a photographer, I can vividly remember standing on top of Kilimanjaro in a sea of clouds watching with intrigue and amusement as the porters who had accompanied us to the top muscled in on summit photos, grabbing cameras to record our happy moment. And from there sprang the idea for the The Porters of Kilimanjaro Photographic Project – a chance to see the mountain through the eyes of a working porter.

The project is currently distributing disposable film cameras to porters who work on Kilimanjaro to collate a unique record of life on the mountain. Many of the published photographs available of porters on Kilimanjaro are taken from a distinctly Western perspective and taken by professionals on specialised equipment. Removing the technology and textbook expertise from photography can create some fantastic and unexpected results – especially when coupled with documenting day-to-day life on the roof of Africa.

The ultimate aim of the project is to create a book and series of exhibitions of the images in order to raise money for Kilimanjaro Porters Assistance Project, a non-profit organisation based in Moshi, providing support and education to porters as well as educating climbers on the proper working conditions and treatment of porters on the mountain (visit www.kiliporters.org for more information).
To date 40 cameras have successfully gone up and down the mountain but we need your help to keep the momentum going so as to collect a good variety of images:

How can you help?

We need to distribute as many cameras as possible to porters on the mountain.

Distribute: If you are travelling to Kilimanjaro and can help to distribute cameras please contact me.

Donate: One camera costs less than $5 and takes 27 images. If one person can donate one camera to one porter we can build up the number of images very quickly – can you fit one in your backpack?

Spread the word: If you know someone who might be interested in the project or the work of the Kilimanjaro Porters Assistance Project please forward on the links.

Please contact me to help, donate or ask for more information

One of my concerns for the climb up Kilimanjaro was my ability to manage the altitude necessary to make the summit, and equally important, to enjoy the experience. Also, the threat of severe AMS lurked in the background to completely derail my attempt to summit or worse to miss my next birthday.

Past Experience

During previous hikes over 10,000 feet (3000m), I had struggled. Headaches, loss of appetite, and general fatigue were always present during trips to the Sierra Nevada. I recall experiencing shortness of breath just walking around camp at 12,000. When I was younger, better physical conditioning helped me push through the physical problems and get to the top (usually 13,000 to 14,000 feet). But Kilimanjaro is 19,341 feet (5895m)! Plus now that I am, let’s just say more mature (over 50), I was really concerned.

I know that in my earlier mountain trips, I did not drink enough water. Compounding this was usually no time to acclimatize because of the requirement to finish hikes over a weekend. Drinking adequate water (4 to 5 liters per day) will be easy to do this time and our extended trek across the western flank of Kilimanjaro will provide for acclimatization. However, my doubts still lingered.

Diamox: How & Why…

For this trip, I decided to take Diamox (Acetazolamide) to speed up the acclimatization process. Because of the reduced oxygen at altitude, breathing harder and faster allows your body to get more oxygen in the system as it produces more red blood cells. The increase in carbon dioxide exhaled at the same time makes the blood more alkaline. The kidneys get involved to excrete the excess alkaline to balance things out. Diamox helps the kidneys by speeding up the process. My local doctor prescribed 250 mg daily starting 2 days before the hike. I had read a number of articles that recommended anywhere from 125 mg to 500 mg per day, so this seemed reasonable.

Side Effects

The side effects described were numbness or tingling in the fingers and toes plus more frequent urination. There was also a big caution about not taking any sedatives once you started the medication. All of the side effects go away when you stop. This seemed manageable especially compared to not making it to the top.

I started taking the Diamox at the hotel in Moshi the night before we left for Kilimanjaro. I wanted to have a bathroom ready to see just how frequent, frequent is. Three Tuskers that night at dinner added more liquid than normal, but frequent turned out to be every other hour! Manageable in the hotel, but no more Tuskers until the end of the trip.

The first three days of the hike we climbed from 6890 feet (2100m) to 12,600 feet (3840m) over a relatively gradual incline and 22 km. I did not have any difficulty. The tingling side effect in my fingers and toes was no different than if you slept on your arm and felt mild numbness. It lasted for 20 to 30 minutes. I maintained my water intake which created two excursions per night out of the tent. This was not a problem because after midnight the skies cleared and I was able to view the splendor of every star in the sky and the Milky Way stretched across the heavens. A great side benefit even at the expense of a temporary chill from getting out of the sleeping bag.

The Result

The first test was Day 4 when we hiked from Shira Hut to Barranco Camp via the Lava Tower at 15,230 feet (4642m). We would ultimately sleep that night at 13,000 feet, but 15,000 feet was the highest I had ever hiked. It turned out to be no problem at all. Walking slowly (Swahili – poley poley), plenty of water, a good workout program prior to the trip, and the Diamox combined to make this day’s hike a great experience. I was not winded, no headache, and plenty of energy. The landscape was phenomenal and I was able to fully enjoy and appreciate it.

This was a major confidence booster for me. Over the next two days, we hiked up to Barufu Huts Camp at 15,358 feet (4681m). This was the last camp before our summit attempt that night at midnight. After 6 days and almost 40 kilometers of walking, the excitement and anticipation provided plenty of adrenaline. I was raring to go and felt great.

The Summit

When the last cheers of “Happy New Year” started to subside, we left Barafu Camp for the summit. Pitch black with your headlamp only illuminating the next three feet, we trudged steadily up the next 4,000 feet over the next 7 hours. We pass multiple groups huddled over fallen comrades and we lose one of our own to the altitude (Note – later in the day, she recovered and made it to the top). The ingredients of training, pace, hydration, and modern medicine combined to deliver me to the peak at 6:45AM. An unbelievable feeling of accomplishment and satisfaction wash over me as I get my picture taken at Uhuru Peak 5895m, Africa’s highest point, the world’s tallest freestanding mountain.

Could I have made it without Diamox? I don’t know. I wanted to give myself every advantage possible so I trained hard, took care of my body during the trip, followed directions (poley poley), and used available medicine whether it was Imodium or Diamox to aid my ascent. What I do know is that I made it and that is good enough for me.

And now for something completely different…!

The annual Kilimanjaro Marathon is set this year for Sunday March 1 2009. This is one of the most popular of the exotic global marathon destinations and is an unusual mix of bucolic African highland scenery and top flight international runners. The marathon is hosted by the town of Moshi, the main jump-off point for Kilimanjaro, and a scenic destination in its own right, set as it is in the heartland of the small scale coffee growing region, and of course with the iconic backdrop of Kilimanjaro ever present.

March is an excellent time to visit the region, just before the onset of the long rains, and with the ubiquitous haze briefly absent. The marathon route uses a combination of local roads to trace a circuit of 42.2 Kilometers through small rural villages and homesteads with large numbers of local people lining the route to share the excitement. The race starts at Moshi Stadium and briefly traces the main Dar es Salaam road before turning towards the mountain and heading for the tiny mountain village of Mekwa. The turnaround point marks approximately 32 kilometers, at which point the route becomes a fast downhill run back towards Moshi Stadium.

There is a bike race and also a half-marathon

The main sponsors of the event are Air Tanzania, Tanzania Breweries and the ubiquitous South African communications giant Vodacom, and the entire event is extremely well organized and supported. This year top Tanzanian and Kenya runners will be competing, which lends weight to what otherwise might be seen as a promotional fun-run for local tourism, and a fact that will help pitch the Kilimanjaro Marathon onto the world circuit with some surety. It is still a little way shy of competing with other major events on the global calendar, and still has a little bit of a rustic flavor. This is part of the charm of the event, however, and in fact part of the charm of the whole region. Kilimanjaro is probably the most recognizable climbing destination in the world, and yet the park itself, the wider support region and the tourist industry locally, maintains its sense of being a sleepy cottage industry which definitely is very much part of its appeal.

So for any and all of you out there for whom testing your resolve on a full marathon is not enough, and you need a multi-day trek to the top of Africa’s highest peak to round off a week of mild exercise, get your nikes on and pound the pavement around Kili this year, it promises to be one of highlights of marathon calendar.

For more information

“I’d been awake most of the night, struggling for breath in the meager air “
Jon Krakauer from “Into Thin Air”

No, this isn’t the newest diet fad or a way to stop someone from choking.

This is the name given to the process of running short of oxygen and being jolted awake by the horrible feeling of suffocation while attempting to sleep at significant altitude. Both my son and I experienced this potential altitude effect while cocooned in our minus-20 rated bags during our memorable night at Crater Camp (18,800ft), before our summit of Kilimanjaro the following morning.

“Sleeping is a problem for most high-altitude climbers due to a phenomenon known as Cheyne-Stokes breathing. While dozing, the climber breathes normally for a minute and then stops completely for thirty seconds. Suddenly, breathing resumes at an accelerated rate. One minute you sound out of breath, the next, dead. It is often more disconcerting for the tent mate than the sleeper.”
John Roskelley from “Nanda Devi, the tragic expedition.”

Please understand this missive is for edification not condemnation because I was the flatlander who had chosen to climb the Western Breach and camp just under the summit. I was the flatlander who thought doing an overnight at 18,800 ft. would be the experience of a lifetime. And I’m the one who wouldn’t trade that sleepless night with my son for anything in the world.

We discovered this phenomenon while attempting a nap before dinner. We had been up, in the predawn chill, climbing to minimize the risk of rock falls on the Breach (the very thing that ultimately closed the route in January of 2006). We had scaled it in just under 5 hours and spent 2 hours exploring the Reusch Crater, the surrounding cinder cones and the mythical iconic glaciers. As we arrived at our moonlike camp nestled between the Furtwrangler Glacier and the foot of the 1000ft summit ridge, our head Tusker guide simply said, “The UV is intense up here, you should stay out of the sun before dinner”. Our oxygen starved brains went “OK” without thought and we lumbered into our much loved, two man Eureka Scorpion tent. We had been on the mountain 9 days to this point and were tired by default. Naps were easy to accomplish. As I recall however, I was the first one to grope to a sitting position gasping for breath but with 50% less oxygen in the air, I have little memory of how we spent the time before dinner or what was said. I don’t even remember dinner.

As night fell we were warm and cozy in our bags but deep sleep again forced our gasps for breath needing 2 to 3 desperate inhalations to regain our oxygen balance.

For whatever reason, (I’ll blame the altitude), I waited until midnight to get up and tell our head guide we were having trouble breathing. He dutifully got up and came to our tent with the pulse oximeters and some oxygen. The oximeters measure blood oxygen content and my numbers were “normal” for 18,800ft. He gave me some O2 but I could breathe just fine while awake and it had no effect. If he would have let me sleep with it I probably could have, but there was only one bottle and one mask. There was no way I would have considered using it if my son couldn’t have the same so I didn’t even ask.

It was then I remembered the dozens of mountaineering books I have read and all the references to, “sleep was out of the question” and “another sleepless night” comments. I looked at my son and said, “Welcome to altitude buddy, what do you want to talk about until morning?”

There was an abundance of quality material to solicit from each other; we’d ascended past a dead climber being dragged down the Breach Route in a tarp earlier in the day, we knew we would summit “easily” (compared to the Western Breach) in an hour when the sun came up and we’d be at 12,500 ft. the next night, we were two nights from our coveted first shower in 11 days and we knew hunger would return so we made lists of all the foods we were going to eat…and lots more.

The gift that was rendered from our sleepless canvass that night wasn’t so much what we said or the stunning beauties of the moon lit cerulean blue glaciers or by stars close enough to pluck from the sky with your finger or even our location on top of Kilimanjaro, the roof of Africa. The true essence of the experience we shared was the opportunity a father and son were given to fight a common foe. No doubt climbing the mountain together was a big part of it but that night keeping each other company and awake, was the exclamation point. I don’t know how many times we clamored, “Can you believe we are on top of Kilimanjaro?”

Since that night forward our good father/son connection became an indestructible bond which has never let our relationship suffer. This would never have happened with such conviction had we been able to sleep.

In all the accounts I’d read while researching our trip everyone seamed to be able to sleep just fine at Crater Camp. The night before at Arrow Glacier Camp we slept without issue at 16,000 ft. so I can’t really say why 2,800 ft made such a difference, but it is, indeed, over a half mile higher into to rarified air.

I still recommend the Crater Camp strategy to anyone who asks because so few take that opportunity (less that 5% of the annual trekkers choose this option) to experience its unique topography and stunning beauty. Summit day starts with an hour pitch up to the top, not an 8-hour slog through the night and standing next to the “Snows of Kilimanjaro” may not be available after 2015 or at least that’s what the “experts” say.

My research never identified Cheyne-Stokes as an issue on Kilimanjaro so I will postulate that we were some of the very few to experience it but my son and I carried priceless equity from our sleepless endeavor none the less.

As expected, when we settled in at our last camp our hunger returned and our trouble sleeping the night before was forgotten. After our exceptionally delicious celebration dinner we slipped into our bags as the sanguine glow of dusk receded and slept like two guys that had just climbed a 19,340-ft mountain.

It is fun to watch the jaws drop on the folks I share this story with now. Most of course, would never dream of climbing Kilimanjaro much less camping at 18,800-ft. When they understand I’d been there however, the first question is always, “What’s it like up there?” Before I answer, I take a breath.

Read Robert Barta’s Kili Blog’s
* Kilimanjaro 2007
* Kilimanjaro (2nd summit) 2009

I remember when I saw the woman puking and crying, 20 feet from Stella’s point, while everyone walked past her. I also remember my friend Zamoyoni eyes roll back in his head – and he couldn’t talk. It’s pretty scary when you get to the summit.

This is a great part of his story, somewhat similar to one of my experiences.

“Now some people would not believe some of the things we saw on the summit. Even if they were with us, the lack of oxygen impairs the senses. I’m sure my recollections won’t be complete and I missed things that others observed. One of the Brazilians would not leave the summit, wanted to lay down and go to sleep, a death sentence. His small guide could not get him up so our guide got him going and Charlotte (a doctor) gave him dexamethazone, a seriously powerful drug to help with altitude sickness. She had already taken one herself. On the way down from the crater rim, about 100ft down, a woman sat down and started puking. She was left behind by her group and had no guide. More dexamethazone and a little help from our guides. We saw another person without a guide who descended with our group.”

Read this great colorful story on climbing Kilimanjaro.

Read the Rongai route story.