Mt. Kilimanjaro Ed's Pack
Picture of the week 24
These multicolored cocoons housed the South African Team and my son and I from Wisconsin at Lava Tower. The bright yellow ones were ours of course but after meeting many different people from around the world, only one man from England, after introductions said, “Ah…Cheeseheads”.
Date: June 11th, 2007 |
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Picture of the week 22
Normally the views of Lava Tower Camp are taken from ground level with tents in the foreground and giant mastiff in the background but having scrambled up to the top and talking myself into edging this close to the 300 foot drop; I had to include this unique view in my weekly photographs.
Date: May 30th, 2007 |
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Picture of the week 20
Lava Tower Camp is 14,950-ft above sea-level which makes it higher that anything in the continuous 48 states. It was a trill to see the clouds running past the camp below our line of sight and after six days on the trail we were feeling fit and well accustomed to the altitude.
Date: May 14th, 2007 |
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Picture of the week 18
The 4 hour jaunt from Moir Camp to Lava Tower took us through topography where I fully expected to see the White Rabbit darting about. As we approached the intersection where the Lemosho, Machame and North Circuit routes converge, we found ourselves surrounded by this spectacular boulder field. I couldn’t immediately put my finger on why it looked so weird to me but slowly, enough oxygen crept in from the 14,300 ft. air to produce the answer. The boulders looked like they had just been rolled into place; none of them were weathered-in or half protruding. It was …
Date: April 30th, 2007 |
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Kilimanjaro Picture of the week 16
Whether we were returning from an acclimation hike or arriving at our next new camp up the mountain, our team always had delicious roasted peanuts and freshly made popcorn waiting for us in the mess tent. Not only is this the tradition of the better organized outfitters but they are also two of my most favorite snacks.
My appetite disappeared the second day on the trail but I always ate the popcorn each day with the same enthusiasm that I carry at sea-level.
The other items on the table are; coffee, milk, tea, energy drink, sugar, honey and …
Date: April 16th, 2007 |
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Picture of the week 23
This is the top of Lava Tower. We climbed it as practice for the, now closed, Western Breach.
Trekkers using the Lemosho route still stop at Lava Tower Camp to assist acclimatization and the heartier souls no doubt continue to scale the tower.
Pictured is my son who found the spot on the basically flat top that was as far from all the edges as he could get.
Date: June 4th, 2007 |
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Picture of the week 21
This is yours truly negotiating one of the pitches as we scaled Lava Tower. We did ok in a flatlander sort of way and it was excellent practice for the Western Breach. I have no doubt our guides were watching us carefully. Had we been trepidatious, they would have suggested we use the Barafu Route to the summit.
Date: May 21st, 2007 |
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Picture of the week 19
This photo was taken by simply turning 180 degrees from the week 18 shot. Beyond the bazaar boulders, from now on, the Western Breach Route would be looking down on us until we finally reach the crater rim three days hence. That gave us plenty of time to wonder how we would perform and what the task would require from us.
Date: May 7th, 2007 |
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Kilimanjaro Picture of the week 17
This is a photograph our head Tusker guide checking my lungs for fluid as he did every morning on our 9 day journey to the summit. Our blood oxygen levels were also checked twice a day so we knew if we were acclimating as we gained altitude.
I chose an outfitter that monitored our health because I was 53 when I climbed Kilimanjaro plus, I had my son with me. Being from Wisconsin, neither of us had any experience with altitude. I also endured a stress test to make sure I wasn’t carrying any hidden trouble to the …
Date: April 23rd, 2007 |
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What’s it like up there?
The first attempt at a nap
“I’d been awake most of the night, struggling for breath in the meager air “
Jon Krakauer from “Into Thin Air”
Cheyne-Stokes
No, this isn’t the newest diet fad or a way to stop someone from choking.
This is the name given to the process of running short of oxygen and being jolted awake by the horrible feeling of suffocation while attempting to sleep at significant altitude. Both my son and I experienced this potential altitude effect while cocooned in our minus-20 rated bags during our memorable night at Crater Camp (18,800ft), before our summit of Kilimanjaro the following morning.
“Sleeping is a problem for most high-altitude climbers due to a phenomenon known as Cheyne-Stokes breathing. While dozing, the climber breathes normally for a minute and then stops completely for thirty seconds. Suddenly, breathing resumes at an accelerated rate. One minute you sound out of breath, the next, dead. It is often more disconcerting for the tent mate than the sleeper.”
John Roskelley from “Nanda Devi, the tragic expedition.”
Please understand this missive is for edification not condemnation because I was the flatlander who had chosen to climb the Western Breach and camp just under the summit. I was the flatlander who thought doing an overnight at 18,800 ft. would be the experience of a lifetime. And I’m the one who wouldn’t trade that sleepless night with my son for anything in the world.
Date: April 12th, 2007 |
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